So I went back to Denver to for the Science Fiction Recon Unit (SUFRU) reunion...I drove past the old
house, the location of Toddy's, the Holly pool, went by (but not into)
Kent Denver, ate ice cream (Grand Marnier chocolate in a chocolate dipped
waffle cone -- yum, yum) at Bonnie Brae Ice Cream, went to the Tattered
Cover (new location), went to the 16th Street Mall and found one of my
two old climbing fountains in
Skyline Park.
Two things really struck me about Denver. The first is that it's really
big. Everyone warned me about how much development had happened, but it
wasn't that which was surprising. Even when we lived there we saw the
fields turned into developments -- Of the three large lots (tens of
acres) near our house, the first (full of prairie dogs and dirt bike
trails and mini canyons) was turned into the shopping center that housed
Toddy's (site of my first job, bagging groceries), the second into
upscale housing (where Dad got arrested with Stanley and Shane for
setting off rockets in a dry field during a drought...and later subpoenaed
the chief of police for his trial...) and the third, after I left home,
into a public library. I wonder if it's easier in Colorado to let the
fields go because they seem so featureless -- if you had to cut down
trees or fill in wetlands you might find something to stage a protest
over but in Colorado on the plains, one field looks much like
another...each square foot doesn't seem individually valuable. Even the
land that does get protected is called "Open Space", emphasis on
emptiness.
So what did really shock me is how large the Denver Metro area is. I
just didn't realize, as a teenager and beginning driver, how huge the
metro area was. Washington DC plus suburbs is 30 miles across. Denver is
easily 40 miles across. Really that hasn't changed much -- it was true
fifteen years ago. We navigated this expanse as a matter of course --
Aurora to see Lawrence, Broomfield to see James, downtown to Megan's,
Bonnie Brae Hobby Shop, and Vince, then field trips to Boulder and Red
Rocks. The fabulous prom dinner I remember was in Thorton, 10 miles
north of downtown Denver. Casa Bonita is six miles west of downtown.
Brian Spanger and Matt Hazelton remember thinking that my family's house
in a southern Denver suburb was out in the middle of nowhere (HA! then
I dragged them to the "mountain house" beyond Red Rocks, and in a total
fit of insanity to a Woodstock reenactment in Herford, Colorado, a
scant 3 miles from the Wyoming boarder!).
Having lived in DC where often you can often choose between walking or
take the metro, Raleigh (no more than 10 miles wide in any direction),
Albuquerque (5 miles wide by 15 miles tall, including Rio Rancho), the
scale of Denver just seems enormous -- and the idea that we drove all
over it constantly, absurd. I didn't have specific rules about where I
could take the car -- a '76 Jeep four wheel drive that got 12 miles to
the gallon, but I got a $20 bill at the beginning of the week for gas,
leftover change to go into my pocket, and that had to last. Let me tell
you, that was a very short leash. I can't tell you the number of
brilliant schemes discarded because we couldn't come up with enough gas
money.
So what the development has done (beyond eating up all fields within the
metro area) is added traffic beyond your wildest nightmares to this
driving city. We knew in 1986 not to take the freeway during rush hour,
but the freeway now has twice the number of lanes and is clogged during
lunch as well. We drove the Mousetrap portion, just west of
downtown, near 5 PM on a Saturday and a Sunday and found it clogged.
The second really notable thing about Denver is how prosperous and shiny
it is. 16th Street Mall boasts every upscale venue you can think of --
you might as well be in Austin, San Francisco or Seattle: Hard Rock
Cafe, Banana Republic, NikeTown, ESPN Zone, no less than three
Starbucks, two Ann Taylors, Chipotle, The Cheesecake Factory, Rock
Bottom Brewery, and Virgin Records Megastore, P. F. Chang's China
Bistro, Ruth's Chris Steak House. (Of course this has it's plus side,
Title Nine, my favorite catalog for bra's has a store here, note that
the other stores are in Berkley, Seattle, and Portland -- I rest my
case). Hidden among these names are a few pricier Colorado
businesses...Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, Overland Sheepskin Co.,
and, OK, Jimmy John's Sandwiches.
When I was there there was a struggling symphony, a non-collecting but
fun art museum, and a Zoo. Now Denver has a Children's Museum ($7
apiece for those over 12 months old ), a 90 million dollar new wing to
the art museum, Opera, Ballet, a new Museum of Contemporary Art (in
addition to the one with the new wing), and an aquarium, "Colorado Ocean
Journey" (now in addition to finding the same retail everywhere you go, now
you don't have to distinguish between cities with and without an ocean!).
The King Soopers which replaced Toddy's in Orchard Commons is way, way
upscale. OK, so Toddy's had Parcel Pickup and carpet on the floor, but
this King Soopers is very shiny. Michael was drooling -- Albuquerque has
Wild Oats, which is fun to visit, but you can't shop there because they
don't have things like dryer sheets and normal flavors of toothpaste. We
have Rayley's, which pays their employees a living wage and gives them
health insurance -- its fun to shop there because the employees are
actually cheerful. But these have glaring florescent lighting, faint
bleach smells and worn linoleum -- all the romantic ambiance you might
expect from a grocery store. (I confess that the Westminster King
Soopers and Downtown King Soopers were more normal versions...).
Our old neighborhood, Palos Verdes, is "pleasantville" tidy. There are a
scant few weedy dirt yards, but they are vastly outnumbered by astroturf
perfect greens marked with "Chemlawn" flags. Michael and I hung out in
the little playground between Orchard Commons and Palos Verdes for about
40 minutes, overlapping with some sort of mom and toddler playgroup at
10AM on a Monday. We were within 15 feet of six moms with children of
identical ages to Lynn and not one of them said hello to us -- there was
this strong feeling we were crashing the party. Maybe it's just that I
had brought Michael, who clearly should have been at work, earning the
family bacon.
We walked by the old house -- still dark brick and vine covered. The lilac
bush seems to have recovered from Mom's drastic pruning in 1984. They've
taken out a tree in the back yard -- the light is very nice. Nobody
home to let us in.
After a 7 hour trip in the car to Denver, Lynn was burning off unused
energy, so I moved the car so she could walk from the park. We got out
the stroller and circled the block, which brought back few memories. I
think moving into a neighborhood at age 13 means you never really settle
in -- the exploring, patrolling-your-territory-age is younger, maybe seven
or eight? Even the house that backed up to ours returned our lost balls
by silently launching them across the six foot privacy fence -- I have
no idea who lived there. When we returned to the car, stowed the
stroller, and coaxed Lynn back into the carseat, a women came out of
the house we'd parked in front of to inquire pointedly, if politely, if
we needed any help. Just what I'd wonder of two people with a kiddo and
stroller who were obviously leaving.
After Orchard Commons, Palos Verdes, a drive through of Cherry Hills,
and a drive-by of Kent Denver, Michael remarked "I could see how Eddy and
SUFRU would be a breath of fresh air".
At the end of the trip we left with the sense that we were certainly
priced out of Denver. We'd have to make a great deal more money to live
there now. Albuquerque seems a bit impoverished by comparison. Well,
let's says it has a shabby charm, which seems to go with crumbling adobe
and the closed cowboy-themed motel on route 66. And no traffic, so to speak.
PS, Interestingly enough the incomes aren't very different for the two:
Denver, median $39,500, per capita $24,101, average home $213,068.
Albuquerque median $38,272, per capita $20,884 per capita, average home
price $204,502. What this doesn't taken into account is that Denver has
this huge outlying area (1.8 million), while Albuquerque has maybe Rio
Rancho (67 thousand) and Bosque Farms (4000)...numbers from Wikipedia.